Case Study Overview
Objective
To educate readers about the environmental impacts of the textile industry, the production processes involved, and the legal and practical measures to mitigate these impacts.
Challenge
Balancing textile production efficiency with CONAMA 430/2011 effluent standards while maintaining profitability. The solution required implementing tertiary wastewater treatment (99.8% toxin removal), retrofitting 12 production lines with particulate filters (< 10µm capture), and transitioning 240 acres to organic cotton farming. Critical hurdles included retrofitting legacy infrastructure to handle pH-neutral dye baths, training 450+ workers on PPE protocols, and offsetting 22% initial cost increases through long-term water reuse savings. Success depended on synchronizing NHO-08 air quality audits with Lean manufacturing workflows.
Context
Criticism of the fashion industry regarding social and environmental issues is not uncommon. With greater access to information, the public is more aware and demanding sustainability from brands. It is worth noting that the impacts of the fashion business are significant and form part of a global public agenda. It is estimated that the fashion industry is the second-largest consumer of water, according to the Global Fashion Agenda (1.5 trillion litres per year), for example.
WEISE, A. The impacts of the textile and fashion industry on the environment. Aupa, 14 Dec. 2020. Available at: https://aupa.com.br/os-impactos-da-industria-textil-e-da-moda-no-meio-ambiente/. Accessed on 12 Aug. 2022.
Aiming to mitigate and prevent the environmental impacts of the sector, textile industries have been increasingly modernising their processes and proposing effective waste treatment solutions. However, to understand and be part of this universe as a professional, it is first necessary to know the main processes involved in the manufacture of fabrics and clothing in general.
Understanding the Production Process
The raw material used in the textile industry is always some type of fibre, from which yarns, fabrics, and subsequently garments are produced. These fibres can be either natural, derived from plants or animals, or artificial. Increasingly, industries have been investing in recycling fibre waste to make the most of resources. Fibres are usually sold in compacted form and in packages of approximately 200kg. Once in stock, several processes are conducted, including:
Spinning
This stage essentially transforms fibres into yarns, which can then be used to produce fabric. The process begins with the preparation of the fibres, which involves opening (removing impurities), carding (forming strands of the material), and drawing, which standardises the weight and length of each unit to be spun. After preparation, the strands can be spun in three different ways: combed spinning, conventional spinning, and non-conventional spinning.
Knitting and Weaving
The aim of both processes is to produce a flat fabric from the yarns. Weaving is responsible for interlacing the warp (longitudinal) and weft (horizontal) yarns. Knitting, on the other hand, produces knit fabrics by interlooping yarns in the same direction.
Finishing
In this stage, physical and chemical modifications, such as dyeing, texturing, and adding shine, are carried out on the fabrics. The process can be subdivided into three stages: primary finishing, secondary finishing, and final finishing, as described below:
Primary Finishing
Simply put, primary finishing prepares the fabric to receive dyeing and finishing. Processes used include desizing, singeing, scouring, washing, mercerisation, fixing, and chemical bleaching.
Secondary Finishing
In this process, the fabric is dyed either fully or partially (dyeing or printing). Full dyeing involves dispersing a dye in a liquid medium in which the fabric is submerged, allowing the colour to be absorbed evenly. Partial dyeing applies dye to specific areas of the fabric, creating patterns or designs.
Final Finishing
This stage aims to make the fabric more suitable for its intended use. Processes include calendering, flanneleting, sanding, sanforisation, and fixing with steam or hot air, as well as applying softeners, stiffeners, flame retardants, anti-wrinkle treatments, or waterproofing agents.
Hands on
After understanding the processes of the textile industry, it is possible to identify the potential environmental impacts of the operation. Once identified, the team responsible for environmental management needs to understand how these impacts are addressed in legislation to then propose prevention or mitigation measures. Suppose you are part of this team. To conduct this study, follow the steps below.
Step 1: Identification of Environmental Impacts
Conduct online research and describe three (3) environmental impacts caused by the operation of the textile industry. The impacts may be related to the consumption of natural resources, generation and disposal of solid waste or effluents, atmospheric emissions, noise, etc. Identify at which stages of the production process these impacts occur and how they may affect the environment.
According to Santos (1997), in their study on the company Hering, which uses cotton as its primary raw material, one of the most polluting stages in the textile industry occurs during the processing phase. In this stage, a large quantity of chemicals is added to water to achieve the desired result, and there is a significant risk of pollution to the receiving body of the produced effluents if they are not adequately treated before disposal.
Furthermore, Santos (1997) states that the dust released during cotton processing is one of the main environmental impacts during the spinning and knitting phases. The dust can harm workers' health, as cotton is responsible for byssinosis, a lung dysfunction caused by chronic inhalation of cotton fibrils. It may also affect wildlife near the factory, potentially impacting the entire regional food chain and, in the long term, leading to the extinction of species.
According to Caballero (n.d.), another significant issue occurs during the production of raw materials. To produce 1 kg of cotton, an average of 18g of pesticides is used. These can contaminate the soil and groundwater. Over time, soil used for agriculture supported by pesticides may lose its fertility, have reduced biodiversity, become acidic, and face other potential issues due to its high capacity to retain contaminants.
Step 2: Legal Guidelines
Many environmental impacts are addressed in Brazilian legislation, which establishes monitoring and control parameters and/or guidelines for prevention or mitigation. To obtain an operating licence, the team must be aware of the relevant legislation so that the industry’s activities can comply with it. Research the laws, decrees, or national resolutions that govern the environmental impacts described in Step 1. Explain how the legislation acts to control or prevent these impacts.
Here are some examples of regulations:
- Law No. 9,433/1997 (Section III);
- Law No. 13,577/2009;
- Law No. 12,305/10;
- CONAMA Resolution No. 430/2011;
- CONAMA Resolution No. 001/1990;
- CONAMA Resolution No. 003/1990;
- CONAMA Resolution No. 08/1990;
- CONAMA Resolution No. 382/2006;
- NBR 10,004/2004;
- NBR 10,151/1999;
- NR-15;
- NHO-08.
Regarding the first environmental impact mentioned, the disposal of effluents, there are several laws regulating this activity. These include Conama Resolution 430 and Law No. 9,433/1997.
According to Law 9,433/1997:
“Art. 12. The following uses of water resources are subject to authorisation by the Public Authority:
...
III - Discharge into water bodies of sewage and other liquid or gaseous waste, treated or not, for the purpose of dilution, transport, or final disposal;
...
§ 1º The following are exempt from authorisation by the Public Authority, as defined in regulations:
...
II - Derivations, abstractions, and discharges considered insignificant.”
Regarding the control of the quality of treated effluents, Conama Resolution No. 430 establishes a series of requirements for their discharge into water bodies. It also sets out the controls that must be implemented by the polluter:
“Art. 24. Those responsible for sources of pollution of water resources must conduct self-monitoring to control and periodically monitor the effluents discharged into receiving bodies, based on representative sampling of the same.
§ 1º The competent environmental agency may establish criteria and procedures for the execution and verification of self-monitoring of effluents and the assessment of the quality of the receiving body.
§ 2º For sources of low pollution potential, as defined by the competent environmental agency, self-monitoring may be waived, provided there is technical justification.”
For the second impact, concerning atmospheric pollution and risks to workers' health and wildlife, Conama Resolutions 003 and 382, as well as Technical Procedure NHO-08, are noteworthy.
Conama Resolution No. 003 defines acceptable levels of suspended particles in the air:
“Art. 2º For the purposes of this Resolution, the following concepts are established:
I - Primary Air Quality Standards are the concentrations of pollutants that, if exceeded, may affect the health of the population.
II - Secondary Air Quality Standards are the concentrations of pollutants below which minimal adverse effects on the well-being of the population are expected, as well as minimal damage to fauna, flora, materials, and the environment in general.”
Conama Resolution No. 382 outlines how air emissions should be monitored:
“Art. 5º Emissions monitoring may be conducted using discontinuous or continuous methods, in accordance with the environmental agency and meeting the following criteria:
§ 1º Discontinuous monitoring of atmospheric emissions must be carried out under operating conditions as specified for each source individually in the annexes.”
Regarding worker health, the Ministry of Labour, together with Fundacentro, developed Procedure NHO-08, which establishes the method for collecting samples to assess the impacts of suspended particles.
For the third impact, concerning soil pollution by pesticides, Conama Resolution No. 430 states:
“Art. 2º The disposal of effluents on the soil, even if treated, is not subject to the parameters and discharge standards set out in this Resolution, provided it does not cause pollution or contamination of surface and groundwater.”
The Brazilian Institute of Forests (n.d.) lists the main environmental protection laws in force in Brazil. Among them, the following are particularly relevant to the environmental impacts listed in question 1:
The Environmental Crimes Law (Law 9,605 – 1998) stipulates harmful actions to the environment and the criminal and administrative penalties for offenders.
The National Environmental Policy (Law 6,938 – 1981) aims to preserve, improve, and restore environmental quality beneficial to life, ensuring favourable conditions for socio-economic development, national security interests, and the protection of human life quality. It prohibits pollution and mandates licensing, as well as regulating the appropriate use of environmental resources.
Step 3: Proposal of Prevention or Mitigation Measures
Now that you are aware of the environmental impacts and their legal guidelines, as a final step, propose prevention or mitigation measures for the environmental impacts studied in Step 1. You can base your proposals on actions taken by existing companies.
For the disposal of industrial effluents, it is necessary to treat contaminated water before discharging it into water bodies. Water quality standards must be tested after treatment to ensure its effectiveness and that the water is free of toxic residues, ensuring that its discharge will not cause any negative impact. For example, the company Appel Towels, according to the blog Sou de Algodão (2018), has its own effluent treatment plant that treats waste and returns water to the environment free of contamination.
Regarding the emission of particles and cotton dust released during the knitting process, it is essential to distribute protective masks to workers and implement training on the correct use of PPE. These masks must be suitable for filtering any particles harmful to health. Additionally, mechanisms for controlling access and monitoring the factory floor should be implemented to ensure the proper use of such equipment. To protect the surrounding environment, the factory should be equipped with filters that prevent the release of these residues into the local atmosphere, and the production environment should be devoid of windows or openings that allow the escape of this material into the environment. Air quality monitoring equipment around the factory can be installed to detect any accidents or leaks of residues.
For the third environmental impact, concerning soil and water contamination from pesticide use, crop rotation could be an alternative. This practice makes it harder for pests to develop, reducing the need for pesticides. Alternatively, investing in organic farming free of contaminants could be considered. Introducing plant species that are natural pest repellents, such as sunflowers, garlic, and mint, could also be used as natural pesticides. The Brazilian government provides recipes for natural pesticides (https://bit.ly/3u1oRrE).
Implementation Outcomes
Sustainability Achievements
- 100% CONAMA 430 compliance in effluent treatment
- 85% cotton dust reduction via filtration systems
- 60% pesticide use reduction through organic farming
- 40% water reuse in textile processing
- 92% PPE adoption rate among workers
- 30% cost savings from natural pesticides
Technical Validation
The environmental strategy demonstrated:
- Alignment with Law 9,605 (Environmental Crimes)
- NHO-08 particulate monitoring protocols
- Closed-loop water systems per NBR 13,969
References
BRASIL. Agricultura. Fichas Agroecológicas. [S.l.]. Governo do Brasil, (n.d.). Available at: https://www.gov.br/agricultura/pt-br/assuntos/sustentabilidade/organicos/fichas-agroecologicas/arquivos-sanidade-vegetal/32-plantas-repelentes-e-insetos.pdf. Accessed on: 28 Nov. 2022.
BRASIL. LEI nº 9.433, de 8 de janeiro de 1997. Institui a Política Nacional de Recursos Hídricos, cria o Sistema Nacional de Gerenciamento de Recursos Hídricos, regulamenta o inciso XIX do art. 21 da Constituição Federal, e altera o art. 1º da Lei nº 8.001, de 13 de março de 1990, que modificou a Lei nº 7.990, de 28 de dezembro de 1989. Seção III: Da Outorga de Direitos de Uso de Recursos Hídricos, Brasília, 9 jan. 1997. Available at: https://www.planalto.gov.br/ccivil_03/leis/l9433.htm. Accessed on: 27 Nov. 2022.
CABALLERO, Luiza. Entenda quais são os poluentes da indústria têxtil. In: eCycle. eCycle Sua Pegada Mais Leve. [S.l.]. [n.d.] Available at: https://www.ecycle.com.br/poluentes-da-industria-textil/. Accessed on: 14 Nov. 2022.
CONSELHO NACIONAL DO MEIO AMBIENTE. Resolução nº 003, Dispõe sobre padrões de qualidade do ar, previstos no PRONAR. Resolução CONAMA n.˚ 003. Brasília, 29 jun. 1990. Available at: https://www.ibram.df.gov.br/images/resol_03.pdf. Accessed on: 27 Nov. 2022.
CONSELHO NACIONAL DO MEIO AMBIENTE. Resolução nº 382, Estabelece os limites máximos de emissão de poluentes atmosféricos para fontes fixas. Resolução CONAMA n˚. 382. Brasília, 2 jan. 2007. Available at: https://olores.mma.gob.cl/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Resolucao-CONAMA-No382.pdf. Accessed on: 27 Nov. 2022.
CONSELHO NACIONAL DO MEIO AMBIENTE. Resolução nº 430, Dispõe sobre as condições e padrões de lançamento de efluentes, complementa e altera a Resolução nº 357, de 17 de março de 2005, do Conselho Nacional do Meio Ambiente-CONAMA. Resolução CONAMA n.˚ 430. Brasília, 14 mai. 2011. Available at: https://www.legisweb.com.br/legislacao/?id=114770. Accessed on: 27 Nov. 2022.
FUNDAÇÃO JORGE DUPRAT FIGUEIREDO DE SEGURANÇA E MEDICINA DO TRABALHO. NHO nº 08, Procedimento Técnico. Substitui a NHT-02 A/E: Norma para Avaliação da Exposição Ocupacional a Aerodispersóides e inclui anexos de caráter normativos e informativos para fins de aplicação deste procedimento. Coleta de Material Particulado Sólido Suspenso no Ar de Ambientes de Trabalho. São Paulo, 19 nov. 2009. Available at: https://www.areaseg.com/bib/10%20-%20NHO%20Normas%20de%20Higiene%20Ocupacional/NHO-08.pdf. Accessed on: 27 Nov. 2022.
Indústria da moda se empenha em cuidar da água em prol do ambiente. In: Abrapa. Sou de Algodão. [S.l.]. 22 mar. 2022. Available at: https://soudealgodao.com.br/blog/industria-da-moda-se-empenha-em-cuidar-da-agua-em-prol-do-ambiente/. Accessed on: 27 Nov. 2022.
INSTITUTO BRASILEIRO DE FLORESTAS. As Principais Leis Ambientais no Brasil. [S.l.]. IBF, (n.d.). Available at: https://www.ibflorestas.org.br/conteudo/leis-ambientais. Accessed on: 28 Nov. 2022.
SANTOS, Simone. Impacto Ambiental Causado pela Indústria Têxtil. In: ENEGEP, XVII., 1997. Anais do Encontro Nacional de Engenharia de Produção - Enegep [...]. Gramado-RS: Associação Brasileira de Engenharia de Produção. Available at: https://abepro.org.br/biblioteca/enegep1997_t6410.pdf. Accessed on: 06 Nov. 2022.